JUST LIKE HUMANS, NOT ALL LEATHERS ARE CREATED EQUAL

Full-grain Leather

For top-of-the-line leather, choose full-grain. Full-grain leather is crafted from the outer layer of the hide containing densely packed fibers for a finer grain. Usually only the hair on the hide has been removed leaving natural imperfections in the material. Full-grain leather without imperfections is known to be rare and therefore highly prized in the leather goods world. This piece of leather is praised for its high durability. Because of its natural production process, this leather will also slightly change colors with continued use. Full-grain leather is most often found in saddlery, footwear, and upholstery. Many high-end leather producers use full-grain in their products.

Top-grain Leather

A cut of top-grain leather is almost identical to full-grain leather. A top-grain leather cut is also taken from the top layer of the hide. The major difference is that the top-grain leather has been sanded or buffed to remove any imperfections. The sanding process results in a leather that can easily be dyed or shaped. Top-grain leather is still considered a high-end leather. It is used in many consumer products including wrist watches, handbags, wallets, book casings, and shoes.

Genuine Leather

As we move down the list, we see different leather qualities serving unique purposes. That’s the case with genuine leather. A genuine leather material is crafted from any layer of the hide—there’s no specification for this one. The leather goes through a sanding or buffing process to remove any imperfections in the hide. Genuine leather is typically used for belts, clothing, footwear, and other fashion accessories.

Split-grain Leather (Suede)

Split-grain leather is cut from the lower levels of the hide. It’s called “split-grain” because you use the bottom material after splitting the hide. Although it’s not as strong as top or full-grain, split-grain leather can still serve a valuable purpose in leather goods. The flexibility of this material allows for more coloring and embossing options. Shoes, purses and sofas are common products that contain split grain leather. This type of leather is also used to create suede— a widely used material in shoe manufacturing.

Bonded Leather

Bonded leather is a term used to describe a material that consists of anywhere from 10% – 90% of leather manufactured from various leather scraps. It’s typically used as a filler. The scraps are bonded together with polyurethane or latex. Since the amount of leather varies greatly with each bonded leather material, you don’t have a guaranteed quality as with other grades of leather. Manufactures typically use bonded leather for couches and other furniture.

How to Differentiate Types of Leather

Flexibility

Higher grades of leather are often stronger and a little stiffer than fake leather. However, your full-grain and top-grain leather will become more flexible and wear well over time. The weight of leather can also affect the thickness. So, some high-quality leather can still be quite soft. On the other hand, fake leather tends to be weaker and lose structure.

The Smell

Rely on the old sniffer to determine if you have real quality leather. If you have low quality leather or fake leather, it will smell like chemicals and plastic. Real leather will smell like leather—that’s all there is to it! (If the leather is colored or painted, take that smell into account though).

The Grain Pattern

Full-grain leather may have some little imperfections in the leather and an inconsistent grain pattern. High quality leather will also have rough edges, if you’re seeing the whole hide. Lower quality leather will look perfectly uniform because it’s been manufactured.

Tanning Techniques

Tanning involves drying out a hide by removing any water molecules. In order to restore moisture and flexibility in the leather, leather craftsmen will use a mineral or vegetable tanning method.

Mineral Tanning (Chrome Tanning)

Mineral tanning is the most efficient method for tanning. This process was invented to increase leather production as it only takes one day to complete the tanning process. The result is a leather that will retain its color throughout its lifespan.

Vegetable Tanning

In comparison, vegetable tanning is a natural process that uses only natural tannin. Leather shades are created from naturally occurring tannin in oak, chestnut, or mimosa trees. This process has been around for centuries and was first used by ancient craftsmen. Vegetable tanning can take anywhere from 30-60 days to produce. Because of the lengthened production period, vegetable tanned leather is often more expensive. However, vegetable tanned leather is highly durable and aesthetically pleasing. Natural leather patinas change appearance as they’re exposed to the elements.

How To Care for Your Leather Goods

Learning to care for your leather products will help extend its lifespan and maintain its appearance. Care instructions vary depending on the grade of leather. Other than referring to the manufacturer’s recommendations, here are some helpful tips for leather maintenance.

Full-grain

Spot clean your leather goods with a dry cloth to remove any dirt. Do not use water on lightly treated or untreated leathers as those products are vulnerable to staining.

Other Non-suede Leather

For materials not including suede, use a small amount of soap with lukewarm water to wipe off blemishes. Air dry, do not expose to heat. Always remember to spot test a small area first before using a condition or cleaning product on your leather goods.